Halensee: The unknown neighborhood

Who knows the neighbourhood of Halensee (Halen-lake)? Better said, where exactly is it? The answer would be: close to the lake and at the S-Bahn. But that’s only partly true. Because Halensee lake belongs to the Grunewald district, while the S-Bahn station belongs to Halensee.
Size-wise, Halensee ranks last amongst the boroughs in Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf, measuring just 1.27 square kilometres. Halensee is also the second smallest neighbourhood in Berlin. Only the Hansaviertel in Moabit is smaller.
So which areas belong to Halensee?
To the west, Rathenauplatz definitely belongs to Halensee, but eastward the Schaubühne theatre on Lehniner Platz does not. Hochmeisterplatz and Henriettenplatz belong to Halensee, along with Westfälische Strasse, Cicerostrasse and the streets named after noble Brandenburg electors.
In 2004, the district council of Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf precisely defined the boundaries of Halensee as such, “The metro railway and metro circle railway can be seen as a rough border of the district. Eastern boundary axis: Cicerostr. Hochmeisterplatz-Lehniner Platz- Damaschkestr.” According to statistics from December 2022, Halensee has approximately 15,700 inhabitants. A far greater number than those living in the much larger Grunewald district: only 11,229 people live there.

Schaubühne am Lehniner Platz

Schaubühne am Lehniner Platz

Lehniner Platz — Asparagus and Amusements

The history of Halensee begins at the end of the 19th century, when tenement housing was built there. The neighbourhood was largely completed by 1914. Previously, there had only been sandy soil and asparagus fields there. The writer Theodor Fontane commented on this in his novel Frau Jenny Treibel with the words, “This world of wonder, in which no human eye has yet been able to discover a blade of fresh grass … this desert panorama, interspersed with asparagus beds and railway embankments.”

When the Grunewald railway station went into operation in 1877 and the westward part of Kurfürstendamm was expanded, the district grew to be a popular residential area. The station was later renamed Halensee.
Halensee was popular among writers, artists, Russian emigrants and civil servants — and not just because of its favourable location. Within a few years, the western part of Kurfürstendamm developed into a lively entertainment district. Apart from Luna-Park (which was the largest amusement park in Europe and located at Halensee lake), one could find dance locales, open air concert venues and the Halensee bicycle race track between the streets of Heilbronnerstrasse, Karlsruherstrasse and Katharinenstrasse.

Roscherstrasse — Schoolchildren, Kästner, Remembrance

Roscherstrasse is located precisely on the border between Halensee and Charlottenburg. The author Erich Kästner lived in an apartment at number 16. He moved in on October 1st, 1929, writing to his mother, “Well, the little flat is really lovely. In a side street off Kurfürstendamm. Nice and quiet … in a four-storey courtyard building. Some greenery on both sides. The flat itself: 3 rooms, morning sun, balcony … central heating, telephone. Monthly rent 170 M. … So not that expensive by Berlin standards… .” The courtyard building no longer exist, as it was burned down during an air raid in 1944.
Kästner lived on Kurfürstendamm for 15 years. He was a regular at Café Leon, which was opposite where the Schaubühne theatre is located today. He played tennis on courts which were only a short walk from his apartment. There is no memorial plaque dedicated to Kästner on Roscherstrasse. Not yet. A project run by the Goethe-Gymnasium high school in Berlin-Wilmersdorf, called the Emil Project, aims to rectify this. Cccompanied by their German teacher, pupils traced the footsteps of Kästner’s life in Berlin. They visited places connected to Kästner in both positive and negative ways. Bebelplatz, where his books were publicly burned by the National Socialists in May 1933. Nikolsburger Platz, where the characters of Emil and the Detectives shouted the ‘Emil slogan’. Roscherstrasse and its neighbourhood. The pupils wrote articles about Erich Kästner for their school newspaper and collected donations for a memorial plaque to be placed at number 16. One thousand euros have already been raised. As Kästner might say, “Nothing good, without first doing good.”

Gedenktafel für die Synagoge "Friedenstempel" Halensee, 8.11.2007, Foto: KHMM

The former Friedenstempel Synagogue

A few steps beyond Lehniner Platz, up Kurfürstendamm towards Halensee station, a side street named after the nobleman Margrave Albrecht turns off to the right. The founder of the Margraviate of Brandenburg was better known as ‘Albrecht the Bear’, of the noble family of the Ascanians.
There’s nothing too unusual about Markgraf-Albrecht-Strasse. It is a residential street similar to many others in Halensee, with old buildings, beautiful entrances and stucco-decorated façades. Brass ‘stumbling stones’ (Stoplersteine) have been laid in front of five houses. Thirty stones commemorate the Jewish residents who lived in these houses, most of whom were deported and murdered by the National Socialists.
A large bronze plaque catches the eye at no. 11. “The Friedenstempel Synagogue once stood on this site”, it reads. Salomon Goldberg, owner of the Luna-Park at Halensee lake, had the synagogue built. His father was to become the cantor. He found a suitable plot of land on Markgraf-Albrecht-Strasse in 1922. The Friedenstempel (temple of peace) was consecrated one year later on September 9th, 1923, at the same time as the Grunewald Synagogue. Salomon Goldberg’s father, however, had died by this time and never held the position of cantor.
In 1929, the Jewish Community of Berlin began to oversee the Friedenstempel. Salomon Goldberg had run into financial difficulties and could no longer afford to maintain the synagogue. On the night of the Pogrom, on November 9th, 1938, Nazis set fire to the synagogue. A witness, Rabbi Max Nussbaum, reported, “The fire brigade was there, but limited itself to protecting neighbouring buildings. Our cantor led me inside through a back door. Half of the pews were hacked to pieces. I stepped behind the Torah cupboard and was able to pull out a very small Torah scroll and hide it under my raincoat.” The ruins of the synagogue were demolished in 1959 and the memorial plaque was unveiled on November 9th, 1988. Words which Samuel Goldberg spoke at the temple’s dedication in 1923 are also quoted on the plaque: “The temple should not only serve religious purposes, but also be a meeting place for all those who want to work together to bring about true peace.”

Kurfürstendamm 140 - Gedenktafel für Rudi Dutschke

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A busy crossroads on the corner of Kurfürstendamm and Joachim-Friedrich-Strasse. People waiting at the bus stop barely take note of a stone memorial plaque which is set into the pavement next to them.
It commemorates the assassination attempt on Rudi Dutschke on April 11th, 1968, just a few days before Easter.
Dutschke was the head of the student movement and was regarded as public enemy number one by his opponents. The assassination attempt was followed by days of violent protests which are known as the Easter Riots in the history of the Federal Republic of Germany.
The office of the SDS, the Socialist German Student Union, was at Kurfürstendamm 140. On that spring day in 1968, Rudi Dutschke wanted to pick up material for an article there. When he walked back out onto the street, he was shot by Josef Bachmann, a neo-Nazi and casual labourer. “You dirty communist pig!” he is said to have shouted, before firing three shots that hit Dutschke in the head, chest and shoulder. Rudi Dutschke was seriously injured but survived the assassination attempt. The long-term effects of the shooting, however, led to his death on December 24th, 1979.

The small, rather dirty square right on the corner is Agathe-Lasch-Platz. Agathe who? Agathe Lasch: Jewish, born in 1879, from Berlin. She grew up in a lower-middle-class family that struggled financially. Lasch graduated from high school and began studying German literature in Halle an der Saale. She was emancipated for a woman of her time, and very driven. Her doctoral thesis, which she published under the title ‘The History of Written Language in Berlin’, attracted a great deal of attention. She was 30 years old at the time. Agathe Lasch emigrated to the USA and worked as a Germanist at a women’s college there — an academic career was almost impossible for women in the German Empire at that time. She returned to Germany in 1917 and was appointed Germany’s first female professor of German studies at the University of Hamburg in 1923.
Her academic career came to an end when the National Socialists seized power. In August 1942, Agathe Lasch was deported to Riga, where all trace of her is lost.

Kurfürstendamm — Automobiles and the first Trolleybus

The upper end of Kurfürstendamm is neither chic nor pleasant to stroll along. There are hardly any exclusive shops. In their place: car dealerships, body shops and repair services. You only have to walk along Karlsruherstrasse or Katharinenstrasse. Even at the end of the 1800s, there were car workshops here. The world’s first trolleybus was presented to the public in Halensee, the ‘Electromote’. It was an electrically powered vehicle that did not run on rails, relying on overhead wires instead. It could only travel a distance of 540 metres — the overhead line did not reach any further. The designer, or rather inventor, was Werner von Siemens, who fulfilled a dream with the Electromote. “When I have time and money, I want to build myself an electromagnetic carriage, which certainly won’t leave me sitting in the mud,” he is reported to have said.
A curved façade. Blue and white mosaic tiles. Typical 1950s architecture. This is how the Eduard Winter House presents itself. Eduard Winter opened his first car dealership in Berlin more than 80 years ago. After World War II, he became a general representative for Volkswagen and Porsche. In 1954, he opened a famous VW showroom on the corner of Karlsruherstrasse in Halensee, which he had renovated. The architect in question, Hans Simon, is relatively unknown. Yet it was he who designed all of Eduard Winter’s workshops and car dealerships in west Berlin from the 1950s onwards. He lent the company properties a uniformity in appearance and architecture, thus helping establish its corporate design identity.
Hans Simon studied architecture at Charlottenburg Technical University. His teacher was the architect Hans Poelzig.
An interesting fact: in 1956, on Eduard Winter’s 70th birthday, Kurfürstendamm boulevard was closed off. Volkswagen vehicles were parked at every corner up to Karlsruherstrasse, which Eduard Winter then slowly drove past to great promotional effect — expertly advertising his brand along the way.

Henriettenplatz

Henriettenplatz — Art for the Public

Henriettenplatz is noisy. Passers-by are in a hurry, rushing to the bus stop. Cars wait bumper-to-bumper in traffic. Recently, the ice cream parlour closed down. The owner could no longer afford the rent. Henriettenplatz is not very welcoming, despite the bakeries which have set up their tables outdoors. Customers stop for a quick coffee, yet hardly anyone stays on to take a seat. Walk around the whole square? Sure, why not?
Henriettenplatz is named after Louise Henriette of Orange, a Dutch princess. She married the Sovereign Elector of Brandenburg, Friedrich Wilhelm, who went down in Prussian history as the Great Elector. A small stone stele commemorates them both. To celebrate Berlin’s 750th anniversary in 1987, Henriettenplatz was redesigned. Contemporary art was installed — something that is seen today as quite a common embellishment in our urban landscapes. At that time, however, the project was controversial and triggered heated discussions.
A bronze obelisk towers above, measuring over 10 metres in height. It shines in good weather, catching and reflecting the sunlight. The artist Heinz Mack designed the obelisk and the colonnades which stand opposite it. The colonnade serves as a waiting area for those travelling by bus. The third work of art on the square remains largely unnoticed. The Medusa Fountain has been fenced off for years, and suffers being misused as a bin. Nobody knows if water will flow from it again.

Westfälische Strasse — the Heart of Halensee

What defines Halensee for florist Christian Koch? He doesn’t have to think long. “The down-to-earth, regular folk,” he answers. Is Westfälische Strasse middle-class? A bit, yes. The street became important very early, and very quickly. It connected the new, wealthy neighbourhoods in Grunewald to Wilmersdorf and Schöneberg at the end of the 19th century. In the decades that followed, more and more people were drawn to Luna-Park, the entertainment and amusement paradise at the upper end of Kurfürstendamm… and thus to Halensee. Astute entrepreneurs knew that these large crowds of Berliners and Grunewald residents would be in need of everyday necessities, such as vegetables, fruit, milk, bread, meat, wine and flowers. Westfälische Strasse emerged as the central shopping area of Halensee.
“Ku’damm to the front, Grunewald to the back and Blumen Koch right in the middle, and now in its fourth generation,” says Christian Koch proudly. His shop, Blumen Koch, has been on Westfälische Strasse since 1912 — always at the same location. “Today, there’s an Italian restaurant next door, but when I was an apprentice to my mum, it was a bike shop and a fishmonger,” he explains. The fishmonger is no longer there, nor is the bike shop. Indeed some of the stores on Westfälische Strasse remain empty.
Christian Koch is a florist through and through. Twenty years ago, he and his wife renovated the shop. “We keep redesigning our spaces,” he says. This dedication to their business earned the couple the Grenander Prize, a Berlin Business Award for outstanding service and creativity.
Monsieur Degouy, on the other hand, has been selling the best wine in the neighbourhood for more than 40 years. La Cave du Bacchus on Westfälische Strasse was the first business in Berlin to offer only French wines.
And what defines Westfälische Strasse when compared to other streets? Quite simple, says Christian Koch, “Wide range, tradition, good quality.”

Hochmeisterplatz

Hochmeisterplatz

Westfälische Strasse 64, just before Hochmeisterplatz. A memorial plaque on the red house commemorates two courageous people: Margarete Sommer and Otto Ostrowski. He was a politician, mayor of Prenzlauer Berg, and even briefly mayor of Berlin after the World War II. She had her own shop in Westfälische Strasse and sold stationery. Both demonstrated selfless bravery during the era of national socialism by helping persecuted people. They hid two Jewish women: firstly, in the flat they shared, then in the storeroom of the small shop. They were the author Inge Deutschkron and her mother Ella. In 1943, a bomb hit the residence of Margarete Sommer and Otto Ostrowski and they found refuge in Brandenburg, far away from Berlin. Yet, what happened to the two Jewish women? Inge Deutschkron ran the stationery shop for almost a year. Both she and her mother survived the Holocaust.
There is also a memorial to the Holocaust, and the pogrom which took place on November 9th, 1938, at the entrance to the Hochmeisterkirche church.
“On February 15th, 1901, men from Halensee who are dedicated to the church meet to discuss suitable means of remedying the church’s state of emergency,” it states in the chronicle of the Hochmeisterkirche. At that time, there was no church in Halensee. A gymnasium was used as a place of worship on Sundays, and it was sparsely attended. In 1905, a suitable, rather overgrown plot of land was purchased. The architect Otto Schnock was commissioned to build a neo-Romanesque church. It was consecrated in 1910, but was badly damaged in World War II. Reconstruction began in 1953 and the church was consecrated a second time in 1958 on Reformation Day to the hymn “Ein feste Burg… .”
Hochmeisterplatz was named as such in 1892, before that it was called Buchwaldplatz. Erwin Barth, the director of public gardens in Berlin, designed the park, including a playground and picnic lawn. And why are so many hills on the lawn? To prevent visitors playing football, apparently.

Gedenktafel für Vladimir Nabokov, 10.5.2011, Foto: KHMM

Nestorstrasse 22 — “Oppressive as a headache…”

“The house in which Fyodor lived was a corner one and stuck out like a huge red ship, carrying a complex and glassy turreted structure on its bow, as if a dull, sedate architect had suddenly gone mad and made a trip into the sky, ” is how Vladimir Nabokov describes his home at 22 Nestorstrasse in his novel The Gift. The building on the corner of Paulsborner Strasse still exists. It is directly behind the Hochmeisterkirche church, yet the “glass tower structure” has been demolished.
Vladimir Nabokov lived in this house for five years. He came to Berlin in 1922, but not voluntarily. He was studying in Cambridge when his father was murdered in Berlin. A supporter of the Russian Tsar shot him dead as he attended a meeting of exiled Russians. Nabokov’s mother needed his help and support.
There were more than 300,000 Russian migrants living in the city at that time, who fled during the October Revolution of 1917. Many emigrants could be found around Wittenbergplatz. The Slovo publishing house, which published Nabokov’s first books, was located on Bayreuther Strasse. Nabokov stayed in Berlin for 15 years, but he did not seem too enamoured by it, “Blue evenings in Berlin, the corner chestnut in flower, light-headedness, poverty, love, the tangerine tinge of premature shoplights, and an animal aching yearn for the still fresh reek of Russia… .” Nevertheless, he wrote seven novels and poetry in Berlin, including King, Queen, Knave and The Gift.
Nabokov married and moved to Halensee with his wife Vera. His only child, Dimitrij, was born. Unfortunately, he was unable to earn a living from writing. He worked as a tennis instructor at the courts near Kurfürstendamm and taught English and French. He earned substantial money only once, when the Berlin publisher Ullstein bought the rights to his novel King, Queen, Knave.
Vladimir Nabokov left Berlin in 1937. He went to France and then to the USA. He never returned to Germany.

Die kleine Weltlaterne - Kniepenszene Nestorstraße Halensee

Nestorstrasse 22 — Legend of the Bar Scene

„You go there to feel life. There are bars where you go to forget about life. In her bar, regulars could feel like they were a part of the big picture,” the newspaper Berliner Tagesspiegel reported in 2010. So you went to Hertha Fiedler’s bar, the Kleine Weltlaterne (little lantern of the world) to feel life.
Hertha Fiedler took over the pub in 1958, which was still located in Kreuzberg on Kohlfurter Strasse, and turned it into a “smokey insider tip”. Working-class patrons sat at the bar next to academics, and poor artists next to rich celebrities. The writers Friedrich Dürrenmatt and Henry Miller stopped by, just for a drink. Günter Grass sat on an elephant for the Fiedler and read aloud from his novel The Tin Drum.
Hertha Fiedler had a big heart for artists. Particularly for painters. Kurt Mühlenhaupt exhibited his paintings in her pub. Art students from the neighbourhood came, got a beer and a bite to eat, and paid with art if they didn’t have any money — which they usually didn’t. “My walls are so bare, why don’t you hang something up?” the landlady would say. At the time, Hertha Fiedler had no idea that her dedication to fostering artists would one day see her receive the Cross of Merit of the Federal Republic of Germany. The Kleine Weltlaterne was not just a bar and gallery, it was also the birthplace of many careers in the arts. Hertha Fiedler came from the GDR, from Chemnitz. “In 1955, I took my son by the hand and travelled with him to West Berlin, I ran away,” she liked to say when asked how she came to be in Kreuzberg. When the neighbourhood around Kohlfurter Strasse was redeveloped in 1975, Hertha Fiedler moved from the trendy Kreuzberg district to Nestorstrasse 22 in Halensee. That didn’t change anything, however: celebrities and artists continued on their pilgrimage to the Kleine Weltlaterne, and regulars still went there too. The saying, “Kreuzberg nights are long,” soon transformed into, “Halensee nights are long.” Hertha Fiedler passed away in 2008. Her legend lives on… and so does her bar. Hertha’s son runs the bar now, and art still decorates the walls.

Cicerostrasse — Striking and Futuristic

Cicerostrasse runs precisely along the boundary of two boroughs. The pavement on the left-hand side belongs to Halensee, but the buildings on the right-hand side are partly in Wilmersdorf. One cannot walk down the street without admiring the houses, with their curved balconies and brick façades. “Marvellous,” and other exclamations of astonishment are often heard. Time and again, passers-by stop to take photos. Reinhard Brüggemann deems the ‘WOGA’ complex on Cicerostrasse, designed by architect Erich Mendelsohn for the publisher Hans Lachmann-Mosse, to be a “world cultural heritage site”. Lachmann-Mosse’s wife, Felicia Mosse, owned the Wohnungs-Grundstücks-Verwertungs-Aktiengesellschaft, or WOGA, which partly financed its construction.
The ensemble may not actually be a World Heritage Site, but it is a listed building. “It’s Mendelsohn’s only urban development ensemble and is ingenious in terms of its architecture and mixed-use planning,” says Reinhard Brüggemann, who is himself an architect and lives in the WOGA complex.
In 1918, Mendelsohn founded his own architectural firm in Berlin. His sketches were shown in an exhibition named ‘Building in Concrete and Iron’. The sketches appealed to factory owner Gustav Hermann, who then commissioned Mendelsohn to design a hat factory. The building made the young architect famous. Mendelsohn had previously drafted the Einstein Tower in Potsdam, a solar observatory which tested Albert Einstein’s theory of relativity. Expressionist architecture with an organic feel became Erich Mendelsohn’s trademark. The buildings on Cicerostrasse were constructed between 1925 and 1931. A cinema — now the Schaubühne theatre — was part of the ensemble, as was the Kabarett der Komiker and Café Leon. That was Erich Kästner’s favourite café, and was opposite where he lived in Roscherstrasse. There are tennis courts in the centre of the complex, which existed before 1920. The Blau-Weiss (blue-white) tennis club had them built.
The courts have been unused since 2007 and are now overgrown with trees, bushes and weeds. Although they are a listed structure, the plot of land on which the courts are is set to be developed. Local residents are opposed to this, and the final word has not been spoken on the issue yet.

Route Halensee

Route Halensee

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